Since writing my Statement of Purpose, and Review of the Literature, my research interests have once again evolved. Below please find the next evolution of my thesis, an Independent Study Project, the research of which will be the inspiration for my subsequent collections. Next to each topic, please find the Pinterest Board or published paper associated with each subject.
Gallatin Graduate Independent Study Project
Proposed by: Tamara Leacock
Title: Fashion and Social Justice: Aestheticizing Autonomy
Description of the Study: This independent study project will explore the ways in which fashion, in the form of dress, uniform, and branding iconography, has been deployed in support of social movements fighting for autonomy and community visibility. The independent study project will specifically look at social movements such as the Zapatista Party of National LIberation/ Ejército Zapatista de Liberación Nacional, and the Black Panther Party, and the media art collaborations between them, such as media art project Zapantera Negra. The study will explore the use of fashion by community groups such as the Herero Tribe in Zamibia as visual markers of their resistance to genocide. The study will also explore how the use of fashion in these contexts compares with destructive mass movements of autonomy, such as designed by the Nazi Party after World War II. What elements of fashion are coopted by revolutionary movements and how does fashion aid in the aestheticization and clarifying of the visual language of autonomy? And in making clear the message of autonomy, how does branding help to propel the goals of activists groups in achieving their message? What tools of fashion can aid activists in heightening the impact of their message today. The independent study will involve weekly readings and responses, as well as the creation of a fashion collection that will be proposed to an activist organization as a way to globalize and contemporize their globally resonant struggle for autonomy and positive social change.
- Adam, Jason. “Antiglobalization: The Global Fight for Local Autonomy.”
- Allen, Amy. The Politics of Our Selves: Power, Autonomy, and Gender in Contemporary Critical Theory
- Barthes, Roland. The Fashion System
- Breward, Christopher. Fashion
- Cleaver, Eldridge. Soul On Ice
- Colegrave, Stephen and Chris Sullivan. Punk: The Definitive Record of a Revolution
- Gibson, Pamela Church. Fashion and Celebrity Culture
- Hollander, Anne. Seeing Through Clothes
- Jacopetti, Alexandra. Native Funk & Flash: An Emerging Folk Art.
- Lobenthal, Joel. Radical Rags: Fashion of the Sixties
- Lurie, Alison. The Language of Clothes
- Miller, Monica L.Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity.
- Morris Jr., Walter. A Textile Guide to the Highlands of Chiapas
- Ogbar, Jeffrey O.G., Black Power: Radical Politics and African American Identity
- Root, Regina A. The Latin American Fashion Reader
- Seale, Bobby. Seize the Time: The Story of the Black Panther Party and Huey Newton
- Spotts, Frederick. Hitler and the Power of Aesthetics
- “Desiring Fashion: The Consumption and Dissemination of Dress 1750-1850” (http://www.york.ac.uk/eighteenth-century-studies/events/desiringfashionconferencejune2012/)
Essays and Articles:
- Awad, Amal. “Why we Need a Burka Avenger.” http://www.dailylife.com.au/news-and-views/dl-opinion/why-we-need-the-burka-avenger-20130729-2quhe.html
- Bassene, Kemi. “AFROFUTURISM : Une déconstruction métaphysique, une équation originelle.” (http://www.afrikadaa.com/2013/07/afrofuturism-une-deconstruction.html)
- Bathrick, Serafina K. “The Female Colossus: The Body as Facade and Threshold” in Fabrications: Costume and the Female Body,” edited by Jane Gaines and Charlotte Herzog
- Boyce Davies, Carole. “Black/Female/Bodies Carnivalized in Spectacle and Space” in Black Venus 2010, edited by Deborah Willis
- Buzzfeed Community Member. “How Iran’s Young Women are Using Fashion to Influence Politics” (http://www.buzzfeed.com/thewilsoncenter/how-irans-young-women-are-using-fashion-to-influe-bh9k)
- Chicago Art Museum. “Constructing Future Forms: Afro Futurism and Fashion in Chicago, Part II” (http://chicagoartmagazine.com/2012/02/constructing-future-forms-afro-futurism-and-fashion-in-chicago-part-ii/)
- Dutka, Zoe Clara. “Black Panthers and Zapatistas Color in Lines that Divide Them.” (http://eltecolote.org/content/black-panthers-and-zapatistas-color-in-lines-that-divide-them/2013/03/01/)
- Eugene. “Grandma’s Superhero Therapy.” http://www.mymodernmet.com/profiles/blogs/grandmas-superhero-therapy-18
- Gaines, Jane. “Costume and Narrative: How Dress Tells the Woman’s Story.” in Fabrications: Costume and the Female Body,” edited by Jane Gaines and Charlotte Herzog
- Jagoe, Rebecca. “Colonialism and Cultural Hybridity: An Interview with Yinka Shonibare, MBE (http://theculturetrip.com/africa/nigeria/articles/colonialism-and-cultural-hybridity-an-interview-with-yinka-shonibare-mbe/)
- Kaiser, Susan B. The Social Psychology of Clothing: Symbolic Appearances in Context
- Lindberg, Lindsey. “Neo-Burlesque: A Feminist Ideal” (http://www.satyamag.com/may05/lindberg.html)
- McCowan, M. Clint. “Imagining the Zapatistas: Rebellion, Representation, and Popular Culture.”
- Nelson, Charmaine. “The ‘Hottentot Venus’ in Canada: Modernism, Censorship, and the Racial Limits of Female Sexuality.” in Fabrications: Costume and the Female Body,” edited by Jane Gaines and Charlotte Herzog
- Rockeymoore, Mark A. “What is Afrofuturism?” (http://www.authorsden.com/visit/viewarticle.asp?AuthorID=7174&id=4308)
- Tancons, Claire. “Occupy Wall Street: Carnival Against Capital? Carnivalesque as Protest Sensibility (http://www.e-flux.com/journal/occupy-wall-street-carnival-against-capital-carnivalesque-as-protest-sensibility/)
- Silva, Horatio. “Radical Chic” (http://www.nytimes.com/2001/09/23/magazine/radical-chic.html)
- Sontag, Susan. “Fascinating Fascism.”
- Stern, Marlow. “Joss Whedon’s Passion Project: The producer-director on Shakespeare, female superheroes, and what pisses him off about the industry” (http://www.thedailybeast.com/newsweek/2013/06/05/joss-whedon-on-shakespeare-female-superheroes-and-feminism.html).
- Ulldemolins, Maria Gil. “Sophie in a Blue Dress.” http://handeyemagazine.com/content/sophie-blue-dress
- Vargas, Mary (2009). Fashion Statement or Political Statement: The Use of Fashion to Express Black Pride during the Civil Rights and Black Power Movements of the 1960’s.” (Undergraduate Review*)
- Watson, Leon. “The Namibians who STILL dress like their colonial masters: Tribe clings to 19th century dress to ‘protest against the Germans who butchered them.’ http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2286624/The-Namibian-women-STILL-dress-like-colonists-Tribe-clings-19th-century-dress-protest-Germans-butchered-them.html
Exhibitions and Dress Archives:
- Dress Archive of Frida Kalho, Museo Frida Kalho, Mexico City, Mexico
- Duarte, Caleb. “The Black Panthers and the Zapatistas: An Encounter” (http://www.edelo.org/#/zapantera-negra/4571745556)
- Mayan Dress Archive of Mercedes Osuna, owner of El Encuentro Arte Textil Maya, 63-A Real de Guadalupe, San Cristobal de las Casas, Chiapas, Mexico
- “First Declaration of the Lacandon Jungle” (http://www.ezln.org./documentos/1994/199312xx.en.htm>
- Korda, Alberto. “Guerrillero Heroico.” Photo of Che Guevara. 1960.
- Your Wardrobe Unlockd: The Costume Maker’s Companion: 1700-1920 (http://yourwardrobeunlockd.com/)
Work to Evaluated by the Advisor:
- Weekly reading responses, to be published on fashion social justice blog, reciclagem-themovement.com in the form of written responses and/or fashion design and styling responses.
- Final Project: A Fashion Collection of sketches and samples that will be proposed to one of the studied social movements as a uniform to enhance the efficacy of their contemporary efforts.
September 4th, 2013- Zapantera Negra: Blackness, Indigeneity and Fashion as a tool for Hypervisual, Corporeal Resistance + Thoughts (Read alongside Images)
September 11th, 2013-From Herero to Nick Cave: Afro Futurism and Colonial Dress as an Aesthetic Statement against Colonial Genocide + Thoughts (Read alongside Images)
September 18th, 2013- Nazism, Neo Liberalism, Hegemonic Fashion and the Use of Highly Tailored Garments to Aestheticize Supremacy and Spread the Message of a Movement + Thoughts (Read alongside Images)
September 25th, 2013- Carnival: Hypervisibility and the Aesthetics of Revolution + Thoughts (Read alongside Images)
October 2nd, 2013- The Role of Drag and Burlesque in Revolutionary Social Movements + Thoughts (Read alongside Images)
October 9th, 2013- Preparation for Participation in Hemi GSI Convergence. Facilitate “Fashion and Gender Play” Work Group
October 16th, 2013-Masks, Hoodies, Headgear, and the Iconic Black Beret + Thoughts (Read alongside Images)
October 23rd, 2013- Combat Boots in Revolutionary and its Co-opting by Punk + Thoughts (Read alongside Images)
October 30th, 2013- Feathers, Fringe and Frida: Cultural Re-Appropriation and the Aesthetics of the Counter Culture: The U.S. vs. Mexico. + Thoughts (Read alongside Images)
November 6, 2013- Black Dandyism and the Aesthetic Language of Emancipation and Bodily Autonomy + Thoughts (Read alongside Images)
November 13, 2013- Fashion and Celebrity Culture: Celebrity Culture and its Applications in the world of Fashion Media Activism + Thoughts (Read alongside Images)
November 20, 2013- Superhero Iconography in the Contemporary Struggle for Women’s Rights and Gender Autonomy + Thoughts (Read alongside Images)
November 27, 2013- Sketches for Fashion Collection Submitted.
December 4, 2013- Work on Final Project
December 13, 2013- Completion of the Collection