Showing posts with label wearable art. Show all posts
Showing posts with label wearable art. Show all posts

03 July 2014

Happy Birthday, ReciclaGEM!

Bom dia, boa tarde, boa noite my readers (depending on your hemisphere).

About one hour ago EST, the idea of "ReciclaGEM" turned four. Four years ago, to this day, in the beautiful and artistically distressed (like Diesel jeans) neighborhood of Bushwick, Brooklyn, I was given the task of creating a "vegan fashion show" for my dear friend, Amanda Perez's event Vegan Jam, an event that celebrated hip hop, multiculturalism, and veg-friendly living. More than just avoiding animal by-products, I wanted to create a fashion collection using one of the greatest waste resources in the United States- clothing and textiles.

They have filled these landfills, polluted oceans around the world, destabilized local economies, and have been justified by many as the consequences of the fickle fashion cycle. But they are also the very material that, if reclaimed, could reduce a downward spiral of the United States becoming the energetic black hole of the Americas and the world.

The collection, showcased on that sun-charred rooftop of that artist collective in Brooklyn, was inspired by the Gulf BP oil spill, and as a vegan would consider, the perspective of the animals who perished in a man-made mistake.

The fashion show featured many fantastic models, who embodied from gait to gaze the emotions of such fallen creatures. And that day, I had the honor of collaborating with an amazing photographer who would continue to be one of my central collaborators, Katherine Soutar.





Katherine Soutar is a Melbourne-based photographer who, at the time, lived in New York and photographed many an artist and performer with her signature emotive and stylistic precision. In 2010, she created these beautiful, dynamic portraits of incredible models who embodied the narrative.

And four years later, our collaborations have continued in the form of a Frida Kahlo and Josephine Baker inspired project (to be revealed shortly), and the photographing of my look book for Fall 2014, Bricolage.
We drove to an abandoned, dried up swamp hours from Melbourne City in the small town of Willaura to a plot of land accompanied by nothing but dried bones and mud to address a collection that also, ironically enough, explored the very post-apocalyptic destruction that the earlier Gulf oil spill, and many environmental political events after, seemed to suggest.

The land was supernatural, almost as if Wangechi Mutu's mind spat forth the animation of "The End of eating Everything" into the soil of Willaura, Australia. The sky was grey, the algae rose-tinted, and the sky scratching the surface of what is to come, what has already come.



















(All photos by Katherine Soutar)

Perhaps the director of 1980s cult classic, Mad Max, had left the vestiges of a movie set 34 years old. Or perhaps the earth is trying to tell us something.

In either case, before the actual End of eating Everything, we can continue to collaborate, to grow, and to learn from one another, take roadtrips with brilliantly minded friends and create a work that translates what the earth has been trying to tell us for so long.

We didn't just speak with the earth that day. We conversed with her.  This roadtrip, these images, these words are the silent moments between words that we left for her to speak back.

T*

To see more of Kat's photography work, check out her wedding photography company, It's Beautiful Here, co-created with Scout Kozakiewicz, and await her forthcoming website, showcasing exclusively to her years of photo artistry such as this.

And here's a flash back to our two year birthday....

14 March 2014

Bricolage + Post Apocalyptic Sustainable Living

Bom dia, boa noite, greetings from Melbourne Australia,

Not sure which time zone you are in (I'm about 16 hours ahead of New York), but whatever time it is, I hope that it is beautiful!

Before I blog about- HOW? WHEN? WHY? WHAT? I'm doing here in Melbourne, Australia, literally the other side of the planet from where ReciclaGEM has been based, let me debrief you all on how our first presentation of "Bricolage" went down.

It is Friday February 28th, and after the amazing photo shoot that was the River Revista's first fashion editorial for its inaugural issue, a series of pre-travel doctor's appointments, and the anxiety of knowing that I had to catch a plane taking me on the longest flight of my life (20+ hours) and move out of my apartment at the same time (we're taking ReciclaGEM on the road!), I had a collection to finish.

The process of creating the collection was as apocalyptic as the animated world that inspired it.

The overwhelm of life, time, health fluctuations, relationships ebbs, and life flows become the very things we consume in the path towards both getting in touch with the earth and others and getting in touch with the dreams nestled with the peace of our minds.

Like all artists these were things that weighed on me as I rushed to the Gallatin Fashion Show, quilted garments in tow, safety pins in need, models to fit, and an audience of fashion aficionados and peers to impress.


And then the words of Mutu's planetary protagonists began to make sense....

"I never meant to leave"

" I needed to escape"

"And now it's so far"

"Who knows where"

"It's been like this for a very long time"

"It follows me, and I them"
 
"We've always been"

"Hungry..."

"...alone...

 "...and together"

What if "The End of eating Everything," the end of consuming all of life's anxieties, throws, and the waste that results from our dealings with these things, is the beginning of becoming confident, reclaiming what we have already used and rebuilding new bodies that are so bold we have no choice but to embrace and honor everything within and around them. 

Perhaps the path to a truly sustainable commitment to "ethical" living emerges through picking up the pieces of our own life so that we can begin to see the glorious world covered by the shards. 

I have not blogged for a few days now because I have been picking up the pieces of my own life in an effort to more clearly and sustainably commit myself to the ethics of living. 

The creation of Bricolage helped me to get past The End of eating Everything within my energetic reserves and Begin the journey towards slow, thoughtful living that is sustainable and self sustained. 

A Professor in the U.S. once told me that she believes we are already in the Post-Apocalypse. But perhaps the forest fire is what we need to begin a sustainable Bright New Day. 


The Future Present is Bright,
T*

21 July 2012

RAWRAWRAWRAWRAWRAWRAW: AUG 9th! Brooklyn!

 What's the opposite of WAR? RAW! The reason for my temporary silence: I will be a featured in the Brooklyn RADIATE Group Show, sponsored by RAW: natural born artists!! Got lots of sewing to do- incl. some tailoring techniques and the like. But if you, my beautiful, avant-garde readers, would like to get a ticket to the show (it's only $10), you can get it in advance here!


Hit the tab: "Buy a ticket for this artist."


Date: Thursday August 9th, 2012. 8pm-midnight
Location: littlefield. 622 Degraw, Brooklyn, NYC, USofA

Stay tuned for more detalhes....

Peace, love and revolution.
T*

11 June 2012

Designer Highlight: Dr. Noki

Margiela + Anime + The Factory with a dash of Xuly Bet =

Dr. Noki (aka. JJ Hudson, "ikoN")

obscure, upcycled, club-mist mysterious, transport yourself into the scene of this omnipresident yet inconspicuous brand that represents a form of eco-fashion that is far from the Kumbaya burlap sack.
 (The "Sophication of Branding" Mask. Source: Shot by Shooter)

Akin to the likes of Margiela with a Warhol-esque cult following,"the Nokiettes," Dr. Noki is a club kid turned stylist turned designer who brings reclaimed fashion back to its true beginnings...body art.

I fell in love with this London based, global taste- maker for his ability to pave a way for the work that reciclaGEM seeks to continue.
(Source: Design in Green; original source: still looking)

With shredded jersey totem masks, Victorian silhouettes made from upcycled flannel, and pre- "ShowStudio" fashion videos of raspy dance parties and opera, fashion is once again emphasized to be an ART! Not a gimmick, but an artistry, an aura, and a sophisticated visual point of reference. It belongs in the galleries. Fashion IS wearable art.
(Photo from Ecouterre)
Have no fear, Dr. Noki is here. And reciclaGEM is here to continue that tradition.



Reclaim the sculpture. Reclaim the art. 


Elevate, inspire, fashion passion,
T*

14 May 2012

Margiela, reciclaGEM and the Neo Artesenal

Maison Martin Margiela, the Parisian couture house founded by the ever so elusive Martin Margiela, Belgium designer, thought to be apart of the "Antwerp 6," the group of revolutionary designers who graduated from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts during the first year of the 1980s and, like Rei Kawakubo of Commes de Garcons, brought forth a new recycled/challenging aesthetic that rocked the world of couture, ready to wear, and conveniently garmentry.

While inspired by the desire to create a style brand that unites the Americas, my garments and their reinvisioning of traditional garment aesthetics (i.e. challenging the conventional notion of a sweater by re-styling them into a pair of dhoti pants, taking a bag of unwanted athletic shoelaces and paintstakingly sewing them together into a cross bodice dress- like chest piece, or taking a piece of furniture fabric and hand painting it water based fabric paint), my design choices and sewing practices stem from a different hemisphere, a hemisphere so accustomed to the Western style aesthetics that they have given birth to designers who are able to thwart them, turn them on its head, and re-engage a mode of sustainable production that promotes the one-of-a-kind, hand-washable/brushable, and artesenal garment vs. the mass-produced, planet-energy costly, and replicable one.

(First photo is by Kat Soutar; last two are by me).





Martin Margiela, the Belgium-born, Paris based, elusive designer, who hides from cameras and jumps in and out of our world as if having access to a secret Matrix-type portal, remains my designer inspiration and gives me hope that the painstaking process in which I create my work is not only essential, but stems from a design history. The Neo-Artesenal is not simply an experiment. It's longevity makes it truly a style revolution.

Have you worn anything Neo-Artesenal this week? Have you participated in the ethical style revolution?

Photos from the ever so elusive book, Maison Martin Margiela, published by Rizzoli:









(Title was inspired by the essay written by Vogue Italia contributor, Lele Acquarone, and her column "Scrapbook," in which she features Margiela)